Archive for October 17th, 2008


October 17

October 17, 2008

It was a shake-awake this morning to a cup of tea- a sweet prospect which turned bitter thanks to the ridiculous amount of sugar therein. What is it with sugar in tea?

Our overnight bus arrived an hour and a half later to Puerto Montt, a sizeable town with coastal frontage. The weather was outstandingly beautiful, one of those clear crisp days that are only possible when the latitude’s low or the altitude high; and the landscape ten different shades of blue between the water, sky and mountains. We wandered out of town in the direction of our hostel of choice, a bizarre place run be an Italian-Chilean woman with a set of dancing miniature poodles. The dogs were of the small, white, toyish variety and did little twirls and taps for morsels for cheese. They spent most of their time as a ball of white fluff yapping from an armchair. There was also, however, a beautiful old cocker spaniel who had been rescued and adopted after a car accident, and was now banished to the outside, possibly because she moulted a lot. She was our favourite, and had many Rachy-esque tendencies, such as enforcing a pat regime and refusing to exit a warm area by locking her legs and hoping you won’t push.

I miss my dog.

So, stuff we did today… well, the ‘lax’n’ in Chile theme has taken a strong hold, and once again stuff was not high on the agenda. There was the organisation of ferry tickets for next Monday, a quick and unsuccessful check into flight scedules, and some stocking up on groceries for our Chiloe expedition. We also had lunch at a seedy little pub with a quarter chicken and rice special, where we also ordered a plate of lettuce with to ease our guilt. Aside from that, we wandered up, about and around the streets, ogling a handful of buzzards on the beachfront (odd combination, don’t you think?), admiring the Thredbo-esque buildings (steeply rooved and weatherboarded), soaking up the sun and generally absorbing the convivial atmosphere. Puerto Montt was described in various guidebooks as “considered beautiful by no-one but the local tourism department” or something similar, but I think they had it wrong. The view, walking along the waterfront, had two glass spires rising in front of a snow-drenched mountain, which were accompanied by the intense sunlight glinting of unseen cars, creating an effect like the road being decked in a string of tinsel. I think it was quite nice, really.

Anyway, we retired early, as was our want, and had peanuts and cup-a-soup for dinner. We sat outside with Linda, the cocker spaniel, because she seemed a bit lonely out there, read for a bit and then crawled into bed.