Archive for October 21st, 2008


October 21

October 21, 2008

We grumbled awake ths morning, dehydrated and, yes, rather hung over thanks to our surprise fourth round last night. On the bright side, I can’t imagine many places we’ve stayed on this trip would be better to grumble awake into- we have a hot pipe in the corner of our room that provides a direct link with the fire downstairs, the bed is big and supremely comfy, and a slight tweak of the curtain reveals a beautiful hilltop harbour view.

We ascertained that we were both still alive, and decided gallantly not to try more sleep,but instead to find a seat at the table for our promised breakfast, which did live up to almost all expectations, lacking only in the juice department but including yoghurt as an added bonus. So we were both now alive, awake and fed and it came to that awkward time of day when the rather vague “explore the town” mission statement needs to be formulated into an actual plan.

First rank exploration was taken under the guise of chores- finding a laundromat situated conspicuously close to our den of sin of last night, trying to track down a piece of Chilean sci-fi literature for Tom (with no success) and purchasing a replacement set of headphones for those lost previously and a small tripod because it was cheap and ridiculously cute.

Second rank expedition was of the more traditionally tourist type and included a gander at the sizeable Plaza de Armas, a look at the twin-towered, wood-framed and tin-clad cathedral (once painted a brave and strangely appealing apricot and lavender, but now undergoing renovations to replace the fading lemon yellow an blue paint job) and a pop into the Museo Regional de Castro. The museum, as well as cataloguing and commentating on the ten or so churches of Chiloe, provided photographic how-tos on boatbuilding and housed a number of uncomfortable and impractical looking pedalless bicycles. As with most small museums, it was more interesting as a whole than in any one exhibit.

We took a stroll along the waterfront in the early afternoon and began gathering supplies for dinner, which we had decided to cook. Our first preference was fish, but for a seaside fishing community the town is awfully short on the aquatic edibles, and we settled instead for a sizeable chunk of beef which I was somehow supposed to disassemble in to steaks. Dinner ended in mixed success, with some maimed grilled meat and giant mounds of salad. Postprandials were limited to window-gazing and hotel-lazing and we made quite an early night of it.